Days 24 - 3O. And I Would Walk 500 Miles. Miles 444 to 566.
Acton not only provided a bed, shower, laundry and a zero (day of zero miles of hiking) I also picked up the resupply package I’d sent over a month earlier (everybody loves new shoes! and new socks!) as well as a the trekking poles and sun hoodie I’d ordered a few days before. The trail is tough on gear, my shoes held up well over 444 miles but the tread was starting to go as I’m sure was the cushioning. I’d gambled on my feet expanding a full size larger with all the pounding and the new Inov-8’s fit perfectly and I was back to full graphite grip from the new soles.
The trail from Acton climbed steeply along the hill side, through Vasquez Rocks Park where the rising rock formations clearly showed the trapped sedimentary layers although perhaps better known now as the location for multiple movies.
A 4 mile road walk, the second road walk of the hike, led through the town of Aqua Dulce to some steep climbs, dramatic scenery and a massive variety of wild flowers blooming in some of the large burn areas from forest fires that had occurred in the last few years.
The devastation of the forest fires was clear but the regrowth and dramatic form of the burnt silhouettes of trees couldn’t help but add drama and beauty.
Having done two 27 mile days with over 6,000’ of climbing each day my plan for day 3 out of Acton was to do an easy 19 miles to Hikertown and the start of the notorious aqueduct section. A beautiful morning descending through yet more wild flowers gave views of the 20 mile section across the desert floor where water is piped to supply Los Angeles. Notorious because of high temperatures, raging winds and the monotony of a flat 20 miles many people choose to hike this section at night to avoid the heat, however the wind tends to increase with the drop in night time temperatures.
Descending to the valley floor and the notorious aqueduct section of the PCT
On reaching the valley floor I arrived at ‘Hikertown’ basically a large yard which houses various cabins and gazebos where hikers can rest or stay the night. Quirky and a little rundown but I was grateful for the shade, the fresh Tamales that were available and the opportunity to refill my water bottles - the last chance for well over 20 miles.
Hikertown
With temperatures only in the high 20’s (Celsius), the wind not too strong and feeling good after my morning of downhill hiking I decided I’d press on rather than spend the night at Hikertown.
The trail led along a large open aqueduct channel, then followed a metal pipe for some miles before that became encased in concrete with the trail headed towards the next range of distant peaks that didn’t seem to get any closer.
I saw only one other hiker in the next 12 miles, a truck towing a quad bike did pass me going in the opposite direction, I moved of the dirt road to allow them to pass easily. They slowed, wound down the window and asked if I need anything. I didn’t having carried 5 liters of water from Hikertown but it was good to know how willing people are to offer help.
As darkness began to fall the wind began to pick up quite significantly, I found a sheltered spot for the night between some trees with a view of the sunset and a large Joshua Tree.
While well protected from the wind my night was disturbed a few times by dirt bikes on the trails near by. Seemed bizarre miles from anywhere (reminding me of a supposedly hidden camping spot in Spain years ago) but overall I slept well. Planning a shorter day, completing the valley floor and making it about 10 miles from Tehachapi, my next resupply town, I didn’t worry about an early start and continued following the aqueduct across the valley floor.
Wild flowers choose the shade
After about 5 miles as the day started to warm up the winds increased. I could see wind farms in the distance and they’d certain chosen to put them in the right place. The wind was relentless, only getting brief breaks as I ascended into the hills, as the trail wound around the mountain side I was glad of my new trekking poles which helped me from getting blown over.
Reaching my planned camping spot mid afternoon I stopped and found a reasonably sheltered area but the wind howling in the trees above meant I probably wasn’t going to have a great nights sleep. Looking at the map I realized I could do another 10 miles and be in Tehachapi, fortunately I had cell signal, booked a hotel room for that night and started down the mountain side to hopefully make the road and find a ride into town before the darkness on the edge of town descended.
Dropping down through beautiful patches of wild flowers into another wind farm I made good progress despite the wind and got into town in time for a late, much needed, dinner.
Having done over 120 miles in 4 days I didn’t feel too guilty about taking an extra zero in Tehachapi - so two days off rather than the planned one. While my body feels great I need to refuel, trail food is OK but it’s difficult to consume enough calories with a decent intake of fruit and veg. Longer hiking days with more zeros will hopefully allow me to do this and the town food tastes amazing!
The next 136 miles will take me to Kennedy Meadows, the official start of the Sierra section which I’m particularly looking forward to.